“Such pretty details as this [Nathaniel] Wraxall missed; also details less pretty, such as two men whom [Richard] Twiss observed when ‘strolling one day about Lisbon in search of new objects’, who had each a large baboon on his shoulders, freeing his head from vermin; it seems they were hired out for this purpose. ‘They seem’, says Twiss, ‘to be the lousiest people I know of, especially the women, who have an enormous quantity of hair.’ ”

(Rose Macaulay, They Went to Portugal Too, pp. 176–7.)